Inside: Third and Hollywood

(Credit: Dana Stewart)

For those palates and budgets out there that seem to be recession-proof, we have just the place for you: Third and Hollywood, the newest semi-fine dining creation from the makers of Northstar Cafe.

The new restaurant, opened in early June, has a menu full of contemporary takes on home-style comfort foods and a refreshing spin on things one might otherwise find at a chain restaurant. The big difference is in the fresh and local ingredients and, as a result, the price tag.

Food: The menu at Third and Hollywood is full of comfort foods at heart, with a hint of a fine-dining edge. We suggest you start things off right with the cheddar biscuits, a carb indulgence that is worth every flaky, chive-and-cheddar blended bite. They have a slightly crispy edge to them and are served either as a plate of three biscuits or a skillet of six—the plate of three was just right for two people (three for $3).

The rest of the menu is what really hits people in the moneymaker. There are sandwich and entrée options that are reminiscent of the Northstar menu, like the black bean burger. But at Third and Hollywood, this $15 burger is served open-faced with literally a mound of guacamole, lettuce, corn salsa and tomato on one bun while the black bean burger rests on the other. It’s almost impossible to eat with your hands. We resorted to fork and knife action, and although it was delicious, it always feels odd to eat a burger with silverware.

The chicken sandwich was also a knife and fork endeavor, and with more Northstar roots—moist, perfectly-cooked chicken, provolone, aioli, red pepper and arugula ($15). The flavors in this sandwich are pretty Mediterranean, which made the green bean salad a sort of odd side pairing. The green bean salad is served at room temperature with French green beans, olives, corn and garlic.

If green bean salad isn’t your fancy, Third and Hollywood offers a great variety of sides: mashed potatoes, French fries or a mixed green salad. There are also great daily fish specials and entrees in the area of $18 to $25.

Libations: There’s no happy hour at Third and Hollywood, but there are some pretty original cocktails in the range of $8 to $11. The Rogue Ginger Mojito ($10), made with Rogue rum, is one worth trying. On tap, you’ll find $5 Bell’s, Great Lakes Brewing Company’s Dortmunder, and Sundog Amber Ale. The wine list pricing by the glass ranges from $7 to $14.

Décor: The inside of Third and Hollywood is best described as lodge meets lounge. The bare wooden beams and varying brick and stone styles on the walls create the feeling that diners are in part wine cellar, part ski lodge. Everything says contemporary comfort, from the warm burgundy booths and mahogany tables to the use of an actual record player bumping out Billie Holiday behind the bar.

The seating is divided into a few main areas: when you first walk in, there’s a bar and a corner with a handful of bar-style tables. And there’s a fireplace in the center of the space that leads diners into the rows of booths, all of which lead back to a stainless steel open kitchen.

Service: Perhaps the best thing about Third and Hollywood is the service, which is friendly, timely and not overbearing. Seating was easy and fast on a Wednesday night, and even with a wait, this might be an enjoyable experience because of the cozy waiting area near the fireplace and bar. Appetizers came out fast, and we weren’t checked on a million times about tedious things. 

Crowd: We think the prices on the Third and Hollywood menu have really set the standard for the clientele: the people who are most likely to be able to afford a $16 hamburger are going to be successful, professional, middle-aged sorts, and that’s who you’re most likely to find here. However, Third and Hollywood is more on the comfortable and inviting side rather than stuffy or middle-aged, with a middle-of-the-road sense of classy that attracts people in business professional attire and their friends and families. Dress in your best casual clothes, and opt to sit at the bar if you want a younger-feeling experience.

Insider’s tip: Despite the fact that Third and Hollywood is conveniently located on the corner of Third Avenue and Hollywood, this place can be difficult to find. As a new eatery, Third and Hollywood didn’t have any sort of a sign posted when we stopped by, but that should be taken care of soon. For now, look for the restaurant in a building along the south side of Third Avenue with gray brick and a red door, right next to Clay Café.

Bottom line: Third and Hollywood takes the comfort and home-cooking ideas of Northstar and combines them with a more upscale experience. The result is a slightly older, more professional crowd and steep menu prices that are arguably mismatched with the menu offerings. We recommend the place if you have the disposable income and enough love for Columbus eateries. Otherwise, don’t break the bank.

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